Terre Nere, Etna Rosso San LorenzoGood full red. Mint and cinnamon complicate pristine aromas of red black cherry, bitter field greens and red rose petals. Enters sweet, rich and dense, then a touch austere in the middle, but with an overall easygoing quality and a building peppery nuance to the red dark fruit flavors. Silky and very fresh, this is less steely and deep than the Guardiola, but has currently an easier to drink quality to it; more Barbaresco to Guardiolas Barolo, if you
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Good full red. Mint and cinnamon complicate pristine aromas of red/black cherry, bitter field greens and red rose petals. Enters sweet, rich and dense, then a touch austere in the middle, but with an overall easygoing quality and a building peppery nuance to the red/dark fruit flavors. Silky and very fresh, this is less steely and deep than the Guardiola, but has currently an easier to drink quality to it; more Barbaresco to Guardiola’s Barolo, if you will. The San Lorenzo is one of the Etna’s best contradas for Nerello Mascalese (in fact, it’s a grand cru for this variety, in my opinion). In a telling sign of where Etna is going market-wise, De Grazia bought a small piece of this vineyard only a few years ago in order to make a San Lorenzo with his other Etna brand, Le Vigne di Eli (named in honor of his daughter) and recalls that, “… I paid a hectare that day more than what I had paid for the ten hectares I had bought in 2001”. -- Ian D'Agata