The 2004 Brane-Cantenac is a far better wine than the 2003. It has much more energy on the nose, which features red berry fruit and hints of tobacco, sage and sous-bois, all beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and crisp acidity, and very well balanced, even if it is missing a little complexity and mineralité toward the finish. This is a conservative Brane-Cantenac that refuses to go the extra inch. But it should please those who appreciate classic claret over the next 10 or so years. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château. -- Neal Martin