The estate’s 1996 Brut is a tightly wound, powerful Champagne. It reveals the early signs of honey, toastiness, and brioche that add complexity to the ripe yellow fruit. This taut, structured offering strikes a nice balance in the way ripeness is juxtaposed with lively minerality and clarity. The 1996 Brut is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from Cote des Blancs, Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne. This is Lot, L8107BG19, disgorged on April 16th, 2008. Anticipated maturity, 2008-2018. This large producer based in Vertus has an excellent range of wines on the market. Oddly enough, it is the non-vintage wines that are especially strong, while the higher-end bottlings aren’t appreciably higher in quality.