Lime and white peach are tinged with mint in an effusive nose, then joined by invigoratingly tart white currant and an undertone of wet stone on a delicate, generously juicy, and eye-wateringly bright palate. A tingling interplay of crystalline stony impingements and crunch of currant seeds with luscious peach, apple and lime makes for an exhilaratingly vibrant and sustained finish. In deference to the regional VDP’s insistence that putting “Hipping” on the label of a Kabinett would be taking the name of this site (or any other!) in vain, Keller limits himself to “H” (or “P,” for Pettenthal, as the case may be).