The nose hints at site-typical strawberry, but like the palate impression that follows, its dominated by pungently, incisively green herbal suggestions of marjoram and pepper cress (what one might call the Würz in Würzgarten!). Fresh grapefruit and apple serve for welcome primary juiciness and consequent refreshment. Peels and seeds like the aforementioned herbal components contribute to a tingling, animating finish, although their piquancy, when taken together with stony underpinnings, also conveys a touch of austerity. This is our current favorite among this years Grosse Gewächse, opined cellarmaster Bernhard Schug, who noted that it was the latest-picked of that group. Clearly, on this site that delay did not result in disadvantageous alcohol. (I last tasted this wine in mid-September 2016, shortly before it was bottled.) -- David Schildknecht