Dark cherries, game, smoke, tobacco, licorice and menthol are some of the nuances that flesh out in the 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo. Heading into the first plateau of its maturity, the 2005 is also the most forward of these Riservas. As such, it should be drunk sooner rather than later. There is good depth and density in the glass, but the development of wild, gamy flavors will only accelerate with time. -- Antonio Galloni