There is a slightly acrid and outright fungal expression of botrytis on the nose, though candied lemon, honey, glazed pineapple and musky iris perfume are also present. Tang of pineapple and zest of lemon combine for prickle and pungency, which, when taken together with the wines high residual sugar, honeyed cast and emerging peach preserves, make for a slightly sweet-sour restlessness, even given a viscous and glycerol-rich palate. Both lightly singed and caramelized notes accent the peach preserves and pineapple on a buoyant, vibrant finish of prodigious length that also perpetuates an impression of unresolved tension. This definitely needs time. There were around 200 liters an impressive haul for something this ennobled and from a vintage notorious for its low yields. -- David Schildknecht