When you think you're seconds away from the superb chicken with Vin Jaune and morel mushrooms that will cleanse your palate after a marathon of tasting and running up and down the vineyards and cellars, Stéphane screams, "Allez, allez, let's taste the sweet wines!" So, he pulls the cork from a 2018 Spirale Passerille a l’Ancienne, a Vin de Paille without the right to the appellation, a 50/50 blend of Savagnin and Chardonnay with 118 grams of residual sugar. It has concentrated aromas of apricot; it's dense and has volume; and the 1.2 grams of volatile acidity give it freshness. This is only produced once every four or five years. The next one will be in 2023.