Autodidact winemaker and viticulturist Craig Wessels does things differently – and fastidiously – perhaps because he hasn’t had any formal training. From a small single block, planted in 1999, which is considered to be the oldest Chardonnay in the Hemel-en-Aarde. Specific parcels are whole-bunch picked over three weeks. Pressed in an old Vaslin press, the ‘black’ juice then goes through natural ferment in barrels of mixed sizes as well as amphora. Quickly becoming something of an icon wine, the 2022 is firing on all cylinders – sensational smoky oystershell reduction, lemon leaf, blossom and creamed white pear part to an elegant yet weighted palate, flush with fruit and the house’s signature savoury acidity.