The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is quite open-knit, radiant and accessible. Raspberry jam, white pepper, flowers, mint and sweet spices hove on the palate in a decidedly mid-weight Brunello that emphasizes grace and agility. The persistent, textured finish is striking. It will be interesting to see if the 2009 puts on weight in bottle, or if it remains the slghtly fragile, fleeting wine it is today. Stella di Campalto's wines never lack intrigue, that is for sure. -- Antonio Galloni