Bright ruby-red. Complex aromas of roasted raspberry and black cherry, brown spices, meat and woodsmoke. Supple, spicy and rather easygoing, with the woodsmoke character carrying through in the mouth. Finishes with mellow, fine tannins and very good length. This is more pliant from bottle than it was from barrel a year ago, but doesn't quite have enough personality to merit a 90-point rating. -- Stephen Tanzer