A more perplexing offering, the 1998 Shiraz Heysen displays plenty of kirsch and blackberry fruit as well as hints of Chinese black tea, meat, and roasted herbs presented in a rich, full-bodied, impressively endowed style. It should evolve for a decade or more. This is the home estate of Rolf Binder, one of the most talented winemakers in South Australia. As the tasting notes indicate, these wines are holding up beautifully.